My Ice Rod and Reel Arsenal

The ice fishing craze has got me going for many different species across Manitoba. Over time I realized my rod collection needed to be expanded to accommodate new requirements. While ice fishing is not as technical as open water fishing, there is a need for technique and species specific rods.

I get amateurs and non-anglers complaining about me owning too many rods at times. However with the abundance of fishing opportunities we have here, having many rods is essential. A golfer has a set of clubs. A toolset has many socket sizes. It’s impossible to adequately fish for all species with only one or two rods. Usually I bring four or five per outing. Some have different lures in case I need to switch presentations quickly. Sometimes I have other people fishing with me. Pretty much every rod I own sees use at some point in the season.

In this blog, I’ll exhibit some of my commonly used rod and reel setups and explain their role in my arsenal. In order to not be writing a book, I will leave out backup and loaner rods. I will say my setups are constantly evolving due to upgrades and replacements. However this will still give you an idea of how to build your own rod arsenal if needed.

Panfish Finesse Jigging

Rod: St. Croix Tundra Ice 34″ L
Reel: 13 Fishing Black Betty FreeFall Ghost
Line: 5lb Braid

It is a pricey setup but I do a lot of panfish fishing so I feel like the cost is justified.

When it comes to jig micro tungsten jigs, you need a very sensitive rod with a noodle tip. Fish like crappies swim up when they inhale the jig. You will not feel the bite most of the time. In order to detect the bite at times, you need to sometimes gently lift the rod tip and watch for a slight bend. This rod also has a fast backbone which allows for good hooksets.

The inline reel is something I’m experimenting with this winter. Inline reels have one advantage where it creates no line twist. The only issue is learning how to use one. The tension needs to be set so that the jig falls without backlashing. The drag is silent so you need to learn how to sense the line peeling rather than listening for it. I can write about using inline reels on another post someday.

Aggressive Panfish and Finesse Walleye

Rod: Frostbite Smokeshow Graphite 37″ ML
Reel: Shimano Sahara 500
Line: 8lb Braid

This is from the one time I decided to check out the Frostbite hype train. Though it’s one of the few rods out there that are long and have a medium light action so I will give Frostbite some credit for having a huge range of models compared to other brands.

Typically I use this setup for my small spoons weighing 1/16oz to 1/8oz used for panfish, trout and walleye. When it comes to spoon fishing, you typically need a stiffer rod tip as opposed to a noodle tip. When jigging spoons, you need to sharply lift the spoon and let it fall on a tight line. Fast tips are essential for absolute control.

This is not a commonly used setup for me but it does see some use from time to time. When it comes to panfish usually I like finesse more and I fish for walleyes aggressively. It does see use as a loaner when I want the second person to provide a different presentation.

Deadsticking and Backup Panfish

Rod: Frabill Quick Tip 35″
Reel: Pflueger Trion 20b
Line: 8lb Braid

I believe this rod is discontinued which is a shame since it’s pretty good for walleye and panfish. I’m glad I picked up two when I found them. They came as combos but I didn’t like the reels so I replaced them.

Deadsticking is an essential technique when it comes to walleye, sauger and perch fishing, especially on the Red River. Oftentimes when fishing two lines, your second line should be used as a deadstick presentation. Sometimes when fish are in a shy or neutral mood, the deadstick is what produces. Typically these fish take time to fully ingest a bait. The noodle tip of the rod lets you see a fish bite your minnow without providing resistance. Once you see the tip bend hard, you can then set the hook. It does feel a little bit underpowered for walleye at times but I have landed walleyes over 10lbs on this setup.

This rod has similar characteristics to my other panfish rod so it does get used when I need a backup or loaner. It’s a little bit less finesse than my St. Croix Tundra Ice but it gets the job done.

Walleye Multipurpose

Rod: 13 Fishing Widowmaker Lake Trout Series 38″ M
Reel: Piscifun Carbon X 1000
Line: 10lb Braid

True it’s marketed as a lake trout rod but I honestly think it’s a better walleye and stocked trout rod. Unlike most rods, the Widowmaker series actually has a moderate action compared to most rods. True you sacrifice some sensitivity but the bend helps keep hooks pinned.

The most important rod in a Manitoban’s arsenal is the walleye rod. This is typically a medium action rod that can jig jigs and medium sized spoons. As a result it’s probably the rod I use the most. As a bonus, the Widowmaker series uses large guides which help when ice builds up on the line. On bodies of water like Lake Winnipeg, fishing outside is pretty common as many spots have to be fished.

Rattlebait and Secondary Laker Rod

Rod: Timber Blue Steel Kevin Christiansen Tournament Series 42″ MH
Reel: Pflueger Trion 25b
Line: 10lb Braid

As a Manitoban, it is basically impossible to avoid fishing Lake Winnipeg as it’s right in our backyard. As a result, it’s heavily factored into building our ice setups.

One prominent technique on Lake Winnipeg is the use of rattlebaits. These crankbaits have rattles in them that emit vibrations upon sharply lifting the rod. Since there is no structure to concentrate fish, this helps attract fish from far away. Since rattlebaits are typically heavy and require sharp lifts, the medium heavy action is necessary. This could also be used for large spoons that also require sharp lifts as well.

This rod can also be used as a secondary lake trout rod. Lake trout use large tube jigs so medium heavy or stronger is necessary. Long rods are pretty helpful when fighting lake trout as they have a bony mouth and do a lot of headshakes. You can’t make a single mistake fighting one. Now I will admit this rod is a bit underpowered for lake trout in my opinion but it’s good enough to be a secondary rod. The next rod is more suitable to that job though.

Lake Trout and Pike

Rod: 13 Fishing Widowmaker Lake Trout Series 42″ MH
Reel: Shimano Sahara 2500
Line: 15lb Braid

Despite the medium heavy rating, this is a much more powerful rod than the last one. That’s something to account for when buying rods as different manufacturers have their own definitions of power and action. If possible always try out the rod in person before purchasing. Like my other Widowmaker, this also has more of a moderate action.

This is honestly the perfect lake trout rod. As I mentioned before lake trout have bony mouths that require hard hooksets. Lake trout also headshake and make strong runs. The rod has the power to make those hooksets and the length to absorb the fight. A short rod can cause the hook to come out as it’s likely the rod will go slack on a headshake. This also has the capability of handling heavy tubes jigs.

I also use this rod for pike, most commonly as an iFishPro rod. I prefer fighting my pike on a rod as opposed to handlining on a tip up. Pike are not as strong as lake trout but you do run into some bruisers. If I ever get to ice fish sturgeon, this is a rod I would take.

The reel has to be large as you need stronger drags and higher line capacity. When you fish very deep water, you need to be able to actually reach bottom and allow for giant fish to take line. Typically ice braid is sold in small spools so in order to fill an entire 2500 sized reel spool, you need mono as a backing. That way, if you do run into the giant of a lifetime, the mono backing will give you extra line to work with.

Jaw Jacker and iFishPro Rod

Rod: Eagle Claw Ice Eagle 30″ M
Reel: Shimano Sienna 1000
Line: 8lb Braid

Yep that is a $15 CAD MSRP rod. It’s definitely not a quality rod but it does have a purpose in my arsenal.

When it comes to Jaw Jackers and iFishPros, you do not need an expensive rod. Rods that a set at a far distance are typically not held so there is no point in investing into sensitivity. Jaw Jackers also put a lot of strain on rods so I’d rather avoid putting my nice graphite rods in one. If the rods break, I’m not going to be upset. These rods also have some stiffness which allows the Jaw Jacker to drive the hook into a fish’s mouth.

If I were to use Jaw Jackers constantly, I may consider using better rods. However I only use them for stocked trout (which is like only two trips a season) and sometimes walleye so I can’t really justify the cost of a nicer rod.

Final Words

So that’s a summary of my ice setups. Hopefully it gives you some ideas when it comes to building your ice fishing setups.

There is a lot of personal preference involved for sure, everyone has their own opinion how it should be done. Expect to upgrade and sell rods if things don’t work out for you. After all, time on the water is the only way to really know what works.